24/7 Rescue Plumbing Services inc

24/7 Rescue Plumbing Service Inc. When you have an old kitchen sink drain with cast iron piping, and it’s corroded, here’s what’s happening and why it becomes a serious problem: What Happens to Old Cast Iron Pipes: Corrosion Over Time Cast iron naturally corrodes due to constant exposure to water, grease, food waste, and air. This creates rust buildup (oxidation) inside the pipe, which narrows the drain line. Buildup and Blockage Inside the pipe, you get layers of grease, food particles, and rust flakes sticking to the walls. Eventually, the pipe flow slows down or stops completely. Leaks and Cracks Over decades, the pipe may develop hairline cracks or even holes from corrosion. These can cause water leaks under your sink or inside the wall, which can lead to mold, rot, or structural damage. Bad Smells Rust and trapped gunk often result in strong sewer smells coming from the sink. How to Handle It: Temporary Fixes: Snaking or Cabling: Clears blockages temporarily but doesn’t fix corrosion. Chemical drain cleaners: Not recommended — they can accelerate corrosion in cast iron. Not recommended for cast iron: Hydro jetting can be risky — the high-pressure water may break weak, thin walls of corroded pipe. Permanent Solution: Pipe Replacement: Remove the old cast iron section and replace it with ABS or PVC plastic pipe. These materials don’t rust, are lightweight, and easier to maintain. If the cast iron runs under the slab

24/7 Rescue Plumbing Service Inc. you’re replacing the angle stop, toilet supply hose, and Fluidmaster inlet valve (aka fill valve) is just as important as knowing how. Here’s the breakdown: 1. Angle Stop Valve Reason to Replace: Leaking around the valve or stem. Valve won’t fully shut off water. Corrosion or rust is visible (especially on Older angle stops can fail when you actually try to turn them, especially after years of being untouched. 2. Toilet Supply Hose Reason to Replace: Cracks, bulging, or fraying on the hose. It’s old — especially if it’s a rubber hose (those should be replaced every 5–10 years). You’re seeing leaks at the ends or from the middle of the hose. You’re upgrading to a braided stainless steel hose (stronger and longer-lasting). Old hoses are a common cause of water damage. They often burst without warning. 3. Fluidmaster Inlet Valve (Fill Valve) Reason to Replace: Toilet is running constantly or not refilling properly. The fill valve is noisy, slow, or sticking. Water level in the tank is too low or too high (and adjusting doesn’t help). It’s old and inefficient — newer models are quieter and more reliable. If your toilet takes too long to fill or doesn’t stop filling, the fill valve is usually the culprit. Replacing all three together makes sense when: You’re already working in that area. You want to prevent future leaks or failures. You’re doing a full toilet refresh or upgrade.

24/7 Rescue Plumbing Service Inc replace a pressure regulator and main water shutoff valve, and why and how 1. Main Water Shutoff Valve What it does: This valve controls the flow of water into your home. Why it’s important: You use it to shut off the water in case of a leak, repair, or emergency. Where it is: Usually near where the water line enters your house (sometimes in the garage, basement, or utility closet). 2. Pressure Regulator (PRV) What it does: Reduces the pressure of water coming from the city main (which is often too high) to a safe level for your home’s plumbing. Why it’s important: Prevents damage to pipes, fixtures, and appliances. Most homes need water pressure between 50–60 psi. Why Replace Them? The shutoff valve may be leaking, hard to turn, or completely stuck. The pressure regulator may have failed if you notice: High water pressure (banging pipes, leaky faucets) Low water pressure throughout the house Water hammer or noise when turning off fixtures How Are They Replaced? Step-by-Step Summary: 1. Turn off the water at the street (the city shutoff valve). 2. Drain the water in the house by opening faucets. 3. Cut out the old valve and regulator using a pipe cutter or wrench. 4. Install the new shutoff valve — usually a ball valve (more reliable than older gate valves). 5. Install the new pressure regulator — making sure the arrow on the body points in the direction of water flow. 6. Turn the water back on slowly at the street valve.